Nanette's Snack Haus, Maginhawa Street

Long before Maginhawa Street became a haven of foodies and casual intentional dining, there was Nanette's at # 84 selling burritos behind bars.

It wasn't part of my childhood nor my teens but my partner brought me there in 2013 as it brought him back to countless college memories. We were there when Maginhawa Street was being widened and the drainage was being fixed. It wasn't as comfortable as the streetside haunts so hip in the Poblacion area of Makati these days but hey, we were eating outdoors under the pleasant afternoon sun surrounded by trees. 

And our food was made to order.

Solitude in San Sebastian, Spain

It was a time in my life where I was always in Spain and enjoyed promoting Spanish tourism. A long, complicated and arduous project concluded that week and I was in dire need of a holiday. I thought why not go to Madrid and hang out with my friend Olivia? Visit Seville and see the hometown of my spiritual adviser. It would be a good idea to meet the family of our business partners in Salamanca too. But for me? Truly, the trip for myself was visiting the Basque country, specifically San Sebastian and Bilbao. 

Then and now, I still have a split personality of being torn between food and development (I thought it was called government and politics when I was younger). Pais Vasco appealed to me on two fronts. First, my curiosity about its autonomous government and concerns about ETA - an armed nationalist separatist organization that then sought independence from Spain aside from its earlier function of just promoting Basque culture. Second, related to culture, is the food. There's tapas and then there's pintxos - the cornerstone of northern Spain's culture - differentiated from tapas because everything is held together on a spike with the bread opposed to just small plates as it is with tapas. 

So there I was after Prague, Madrid, Seville, and Salamanca, on a train by myself to Donostia-San Sebastian. It was a trip without plans except to rest and enjoy. I only had a hotel booked and didn't even arrange for transfers. Travelling solo was not novelty or cool to me. It was simply no big deal. I used to believe that if I wait for a companion to do something, I'll never get around to doing it. 

To get our geographical bearings in order, San Sebastian is a coastal city in the Basque country of Spain, about 12 miles to the French border around the Atlantic ocean. In several occasions, it took turns with Gipuzkoa as the capital.  Its iconic landmark is La Concha bay (shaped like a shell) and my hotel was right before you reached Igueldo, which was a great place to see the rest of the bay. 

I was aware San Sebastian is one of the cities with the highest concentration of Michelin stars per capita but I didn't make reservations for any. After my walking and bus tours, I just moved from one bar to another, having a pintxo or two, leaving trails of table napkins and toothpicks on the floor as it is done in Spain. Unlike Madrid, I also saw a lot of shops and bars selling bacalao (dried cod) in so many ways too. Such a pity I couldn't bring home slabs of bacalao that my mom could cook so well!

VVG Bistro in Taipei

Right across VVG Something is VVG Bistro which Grace Wang opened much earlier. Despite confessing that she's got no restaurant experience prior to opening the bistro, she has certainly succeeded in creating an inviting space that meld the outdoors in. 

Upon entry, you'll see the mixed furniture inside the sunroom surrounded by plants. Inside, you'll discover that you can choose from couches, long wooden tables for groups, and smaller round tables. VVG Bistro is much bigger than the bookstore and more bright and airy. It easily is a space to hang out with friends over a meal or dessert or just get lost in solitude reading a book. The interiors give a rustic shabby chic vibe in the French countryside. (Apparently Grace Wang was inspired by French Laundry's Thomas Keller too.) 

Sala Bistro in Greenbelt, Makati

Every time we have a seasoned traveler balikbayan (returning Filipino) who wants to catch up over a meal, the suggested dining venue requested is often always Sala Bistro in Greenbelt. Makati alone boasts a lot of restaurants in varying categories and cuisines with impeccable service and guaranteed to keep you coming back but when you've just had enough Filipino food and want that white linen service, then it has to be Sala Bistro. 

On a recent lunch of three, we split three mains and had our own desserts. I used to always have the salmon with risotto but since I arrived late, the pasta and steak were already ordered. For something light, I requested an additional order of the seafood and fish stew. It was confusing as it seemed more like soup than stew to me. The broth was very tasty and the done-ness of the seafood was alright. Just the right firmness without being overcooked. It would have been so good with bread. 

Except by then, I already enjoyed the casarecce with porcini, guanciale, and truffle cream. It was my first time to eat anything with guanciale and when I was told it was smoked pork cheeks, I was thrilled! Posh sisig is that you? This dish falls under the yummy comfort food category except having hints of truffle is always a bit of a luxury. Party in your belly! While I will not return to Sala Bistro for the steak (it made me crave for other steaks), the casarecce I want to eat again. 

Later on, we had tea with some cakes. I had a generous spoon of my aunt's chocolate cake and it was divine! But I had to leave room for my lemon meringue which reminded me of another dessert I miss in Manila - meringue with double Gruyere cream with fruits. At first bite of the meringue, I immediately thought of the lemon squares my aunt of Kuya's and Jed and Julian's (my cousins) fame - hers was better. Hers had the right balance of citrus and sweet. Thankfully, the tea tempered the could have been better aftertaste of Sala Bistro's dessert. 

But overall, I like the dining experience at Sala Bistro. You can leisurely enjoy your meal without being rushed at all while listening to ambient music. That time, we were there for more than three hours with some bossa nova in the background. It was a sunny day and its high windows certainly let the sunlight in but its chilly air-conditioning tone down the rays. 

I admit, I have to try the plenty new restaurants in Manila but if you're not a fad-follower like me, Sala Bistro is worth returning to for the classics. 

Site: Sala Bistro 

Homemade Bicol Express Recipe

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On a recent trip to Baguio City, I visited Mt. Cloud Bookshop and came home with a Bicolano cookbook. I know it may seem odd but they sell hard to find books about the Philippines. This weekend, I finally made my first Bicolano dish - Bicol Express. And nailed it!

La Relais de Chambesy in Geneva

A compatriot invited me for lunch today and despite my strict penchant for observing the usual one hour lunch, R suggested we dine at a bistro 3-5 minutes away from Palais des Nations, which took longer than average (but still within the typical P-staff lunch duration).

Boarding the V bus right in front of ICRC, we got off right in front of La Relais de Chambesy. Reservations were made (as is customary in Geneva for peak hours) indoors thanks to the silver morning sky but as the sun came out, a table was offered at the veranda.

Talking about Philippine politics and wondering why the poor are not reaping the benefits of the supposedly growing Asian tiger, R suggests that Filipinos who have lived abroad, who are exposed and appreciate the efficient and effective ways of the developing world should lead and be the ones in office. R said people like me, educated abroad, young and still capable to do something.

I retorted, "what about your type?" That means you should come home now instead of waiting for retirement. Come home when you're able-bodied and can still act on your ideas.

Shakshouka at Cottage Cafe

Shak-shuka what? My friends and I said the same thing while perusing the menu of Cottage Café here in Geneva. Eager to try new things, that’s on the upper left of the picture, together with some sliced chorizo and what was called Crispy Chavignol (goat cheese) wrapped in filo with honey and fruits.  All were tasty and light enough for our apero.

But it was not really Shak-shuka that got our attention. It was Sumac. What is Sumac?

Croix Rousse Market in Lyon

If you've been reading  earlier entries from this blog, you would know my unrealized aspiration to take up culinary school. In an effort to test the waters, I enrolled for a class at Plum Lyon last month. The course started with a walk up to Croix Rousse and Lucy Vanel telling us the rich history of the area from its silk roots to how instrumental it was in changing the Lyonnaise cuisine but also how the neighborhood adapted through the decades. For more of Lucy's stories, also check out her blog. 

From reading this blog, you'd also notice I love farmer's markets - the real farmer's markets. Mind you, I always thought that only artisan products were sold in real markets but I was wrong. Lucy said there are three types of market sellers. First, are those that sell one product alone. Let's say they just sell apples that they grow themselves and perhaps add a few other products made from the apples like jam and such. The second type would be selling specific kinds such as vegetables, fruits, meat or whatever except that they are still all from the region's farms and also are products of the season. Then the third category are those that sell imported products from elsewhere. That's why you see pineapples on fruit stands too.

Korean Beef Stew

The Korean beef stew popular in the Philippines is sweet with the beef so tender it's best with piping hot steamed rice. Although beef is top-quality here in Switzerland and needs barely anything else, sometimes, I can't help but crave food I grew up with. The version I share here though is not sweet but has a strong ginger flavor. 

The Balcony of Geneva: Mont Saleve

Geneva's local mountain called Mt. Saleve is actually in France.

It's what you see that resembles the Table Mountain when you're at the Vieille Ville. You get more than just the world's longest bench. You get a view of Mt. Saleve too. 

But don't fret. It's not that far. 

It's actually just about 20 minutes by bus from Geneva's city center on a few of TPG's buses (8,34, 41, 44). From the last stop, which is Veyrier Douane, you need to walk about 15-20 minutes through the village until you reach the customs border. Landmarks include a little square with a few cafes and a church. The way is marked with arrows towards "Telepherique du Saleve." It's bit of a maze crossing a railway and a parking lot but with good weather, the walk would be a leisurely one, with the cable car wires always in sight like the star in Bethlehem. 

5 Things to do in Annecy, France

Annecy and the lake named after it are located in Southeastern France, strategically situated in the Haute-Savoie department of the Rhone-Alps region. That means you get Alpine views, revel in nature's wonders gliding over its spectacular landscape, swim or do sports you fancy by the lake, hike til your legs hurt, and enjoy the pleasures of a little French town and all its former glory. 

It has its character not just because of its location but because of its rich history. It used to be the capital of the county of Geneva (no wonder Geneva still feels like a village!!!)  until it became part of the House of Savoy. Catholic bishops moved their seat to Annecy after Geneva became taken over by Calvinism too. 

I've been to France a couple of times before but it was always just Paris. Yup, yes, I wrote it. Just Paris. And I never became fond of Paris. But visiting Annecy made me realize and appreciate that there's more to France than Paris. To experience France, you must see its different regions, to taste the local cuisine, learn its history, and experience what you see in the movies - the way of life - a quality way of life. 

We visited Annecy at a time it wasn't sure whether summer was taking over or spring just wanted to stay a few weeks longer. But despite the weather, I finally understood why Genevois always say, go to Annecy. So here are my few suggestions on what to do:

Homemade Omelette Recipe

Yesterday was a non-working holiday in Geneva so I had time to leisurely cook breakfast and have it outdoors by the balcony. 

Kaempff-Kohler in Luxembourg

We had the pleasure to be hosted by the National Tourist Board of Luxembourg right before Easter. After the pleasantries at the city tourist office, we were whisked away to the closest and apparently highly recommended cafe, Kaempff-Kohler along Rue du Cure for the initial meeting for more discussions. Apparently, Luxembourgish both love their pastries and their cheese, especially with their own wine. So we were made to choose: we chose cheese and wine.

So there we were at the fromagerie- bar a vin, with our cheese board and local white wine. Unlike a true food connoisseur, I couldn't note all the types. All I knew we were in cheese heaven. But two actually stood out, the cheese stuffed with truffle (you see the striped one on the edge of the board) and a local cheese soft cheese called Kochkaese, literally cook's cheese in the tiny bowl. It wasn't one of the fancier ones in the spread but I truly enjoyed it (aside from the truffle) because it was my first time to try it and because I rarely saw it in the German parts I lived at and here in Geneva. Must really check out specialty cheese chops here too. 

Cafe Paris in Hamburg

On one of the rare Saturdays I was out early, I had breakfast at Cafe Paris near the Rathaus of Hamburg. I was so tempted to have one of the many breakfast plates (English, American,
Moroccan, Hamburger, Vegetarian, French etc) but just opted for Croque Monsiuer and Cafe Latte. It was too much. I didn't even finish it after my colleague K came hours later.

I wish I'd discover more cafes like this in Hamburg. It reminds of me cafes one can take for granted in Prague - old world ambience, alcohol available (but why would you have it when there's good coffee?), and one can leisurely read. Well, the last part, I'm not so sure here in Germany. Table/guest turnover is quite quick.

Kitchen Guerilla in Hamburg

From one click to another, I found Kitchen Guerilla on Facebook. Being deprived of my culinary desires in Bochum (and totally my fault I have not explored Dusseldorf), I was on the look out for roving kitchens and satellite dinners. Et voila! 

Now that I live in Hamburg I was just so thrilled to find out that Kitchen Guerilla just hosted and will host more dinners over here. Their FB crew was so nice because I immediately received a reply within an hour after inquiring about how to join their dinners. I was directed to their website, from where I found an e-mail and requested a slot for myself. I wish I could go with more like-minded people though so I wouldn't feel so alone with my non-existent German. I think I received a reply by e-mail within ten minutes of my query - now that's client service! I just hope I get a confirmed slot or the free raffle prize slot! That would be such a gift! 

Fork Tapas in Cape Town

The evening S and I had dinner at Little Ethiopia, Fork Tapas was full. It was another small restaurant with few tables at the ground floor and a full bar at the end. When I read tapas, I think Spain. And I love Spanish food so I made a mental note: must come back and try Fork!

Little Ethiopia, Cape Town

Personal collection as usual

One Friday evening, my friend S and I opted to have dinner at Little Ethiopia. It was recommended by our Ethiopian classmate as the better restaurant than the other one nearby. After a few turns from Long Street, we found the hole-in-the-wall eatery along Shortmarket street. One wouldn't even notice it as it was small and narrow. On a good day, one could dine al fresco too.

It wasn't full yet so our food arrived quickly. We opted to share a big platter with a little of everything. My dear friend from Botswana was equally to hungry to remember and figure out each viand in our big, big platter. All I remember was that everything seemed so delicious with the ingera, the white sticky bread (like pita but gooey) that we ate with the stewed meat and vegetables. There was a wash basin within the restaurant and enough tissue paper, which was very helpful because one would inevitably use one's fingers. 

My advice: come with an appetite and an open mind. If I were to return to Cape Town, I'm definitely eating there again and will bring more friends! 

Little Ethiopia, 76 Shortmarket Street, Cape Town. Tel: 021 424 8254

Wochenmarkt Volksdorf

I moved to Volksforf a few weeks ago. It's a district in the Wandsbek neighborhood in the northeast of Hamburg. Literally means "people's village" and it has a very lived-in feel where families thrive in a community. It's common to see teens in bikes to and from school, elderly carrying groceries, the middle aged folks sipping coffee at a cafe with a book or an iPad.

But last Saturday, people were on the streets, specifically all over the Wochenmarkt.  As a deprived foodie, I was just thrilled to know that a lot of the food I like is sold in Volksdorf either at supermarkets (more on that on a next post) or at the weekend market. 

This is where all the thundercats are at! 

The closest to fresh fish I can ever have unless I go to the infamous fish market of Hamburg at 5am.

Cape Town Calm

I spent a month in Cape Town with classmates and failed to make a single entry. As those wine bags suggest, enough wine, chill moments, and just too much fun in Cape Town. We did study of course.

Kai Neo Japanse Cuisine

Since I moved to Germany, I realized my taste buds have significantly changed. In Bochum, I found most dishes bland and lacking flavor. Non-spicy Mexican food, non-salty Spanish food, or simply "empty"-tasting Vietnamese salads.

So when I had lunch at Kai Neo Japanese Cuisine recently, I really appreciated the clean flavors of the dishes. None were oily and what you taste are just the natural flavors. E and I ordered a lunch menu each (I had grilled mackerel and he had seared pork) accompanied by their house sake, and a sashimi platter because I missed raw salmon.