Kutna Hora in Spring (St. Barbara and Jesuit College)
My recent post on backpacking in the Philippines generated a discussion thread between me and J., a friend of mine who also lived in Prague. The conversation ended with me concluding that I'd be better off tagging along with E. for a proper adventure. Seriously, some of the most fun and memorable trips I've had are those with E. , and the other characters we managed to include in the story: a Korean classmate, a hesitant Indian, Cesky Drahy, Amstel beer, and the list goes on.
But when it comes to adventures with E., our first ever visit to Kutna Hora comes to mind.
Any one who plans on seeing more sites outside of Prague has probably thought about visiting Kutna Hora, or at least the church made of bones in Sedlec - within walking distance to the other fine buildings to see in Kutna Hora.
Our Friday classes then, ended at 1:30PM. Most people would have lunch, but me and E. would always be usually running towards the nadrazi to catch a train to Prague (which leaves before 2pm and you need to run across Podebrady to purchase tickets and cross the tunnel under the platforms) or leisurely walk to the train station, to go elsewhere. We'd normally pass by a potraviny for some snacks or get some ice cream under the surgeon's building, just at the park.
That particular afternoon though, J., our Indian classmate, was intrigued and somehow convinced himself he would join us, wherever we went. At the nadrazi, there we were looking at the timetable, figuring out where the next departing train is headed. We figured it will pass by Kutna Hora, purchased tickets, and there we were on the platform, waiting.
It was autumn, and naturally, the sun was bidding farewell earlier than usual. Suffice to say, it looked like dusk when we arrived at the tiny Sedlec train station, and were only lucky enough to catch the bus headed for the town center. Slow, bumpy bus driving around faded gray houses in between yellow and white newly painted ones.
As with any place in the Czech Republic, the whole town lit up like fairy lights in a dark sky. As usual, the lighting effects were dramatic - puts you in a Dracula movie if you like being creepy. We were unable to enter any building, only dimly lit shops selling paper or wooden artworks (the sort your grandma would keep and would gather dust if it were yours), aromatherapy shops, and a random Cajovna. Narrow cobblestone roads lined with lamps with a yellow-glow, baroque churches with doors as high as a circus giant, and more darkness looming around.
There was not much to see because Kutna Hora was cloaked in darkness. Ghost hunting, maybe? But, not that night. And J., was getting uneasy. He was scared of being in the town, at dark. It was cold, we did not have a map, and we did not know when the last bus or train would be leaving. We could get stranded in Kutna Hora. He tried to argue with me and E., but we just tried to suppress our laughter. We were having fun seeing him agitated, complaining about his studies, the Czech Republic, and his long "back in India" narrative. (Any foreigner who has stayed in the Czech Republic beyond a touristy visit would know very well what I am talking about!) It was simple to shut him up. We'd always tell him, "you can walk, you can go home ahead." But of course, he was too afraid to do it on his own.
By dinner time though, we were back in Podebrady. I'm not quite sure where we landed that night. Probably that small pub behind the tennis court in front of the kolej. The one where the locals go and the place to be if you want to be mocked by locals, and avoid foreign students. Just like most small town pubs, this has a dozen tables or less, smells like cigarettes, and again, dimly lit. You have to cross a park lined with really tall, narrow, cylindrical trees next to rubbish bins to get to that pivnice.
Don't get me wrong. Kutna Hora is worth visiting, that's why we went back in Spring - there's more sunshine. We did not only visit the bone church, walked inside Philipp Morris cigarette museum, and load up on Dutch beer at another pivnice, we did so much more. Pa pa!
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