Homemade Bicol Express Recipe

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On a recent trip to Baguio City, I visited Mt. Cloud Bookshop and came home with a Bicolano cookbook. I know it may seem odd but they sell hard to find books about the Philippines. This weekend, I finally made my first Bicolano dish - Bicol Express. And nailed it!

Although the origin of Bicol Express is disputed - some sources state it was created in Malate as a less spicy version - my Bicol-raised partner says he grew up with this dish at home. So with his guidance, I attempted to make it. 

WHAT (Ingredients):

I used half a kilo of liempo (pork belly) sliced in bite-size pieces. 

Pink bagoong Alamang (shrimp paste), which I first sautéed with the bone and fattier pieces of liempo, garlic, ginger and onions until pinkish brown

Freshly squeezed milk from 2 coconuts (groceries can grate it for you then squeeze them at home)

Diced onion and garlic 

And generous sili (cut in two, diced smaller and/or soaked in water prior. Your choice.)

HOW (Process):

On high heat, first sautée the liempo until its water is released. As its own oil is released, add a bit of vegetable oil if needed then add the onions. Sautée together until translucent but not caramelised. At this point, add the garlic too. Sautée further until liempo is cooked through but both pork and garlic shouldn't look toasted. It is a challenge to do this on high heat but it can be done. 

Now it's time to add the bagoong. Now sautée further until the point that everything is almost brown but not quite. Expect the little oil present to be absorbed by the bagoong. Once the dish seems to have come together, it's time to add the coconut milk. And this is the part you never stop stirring until it's done to avoid curdling. 

If you're like me who put a generous portion of coconut milk, there will be enough to boil and further tenderize the pork and absorb the flavors. Once the milk is reduced in half, it's time to add the chilli. Ours was cut in tiny pieces with the seeds left. Adding the chilli at this point gives time for all the flavors to infuse but not long enough to overcook the chilli. It should still be crunchy by the time the milk is reduced to a sticky sauce with lots of shrimp paste. It's not supposed to have a soupy sarsa (sauce) like other stews. I was told the chilli is the vegetable component of the Bicol express and not a mere garnish as it is often the case at restaurants. 

Now you can plate and serve. 

I'm sharing this confidently as this process was successfully able to meld the flavors of pork, coconut milk, and chilli into the dish. It is only spicy at first bite (or chew) but what lingers is first the taste of creamy pork in shrimp paste with a whiff of pepper. And my certified Bicolano said it takes just like fom home. 

Make sure you have extra rice! 

Guten Apetit!