The South of Manila is Worth a Visit!

                                                                            Interiors of the Tayabas Basilica

Who would have thought so much could be done in one weekend? I am talking about nurturing friendships, hilarious laughter, 7-kilometer dark roads, countless churches, the Laguna and Caliraya lakes, quaint provincial towns, breakfast at the plaza, a deluxe room with a view, eclectic cafes and hotels, and, the palaisdaan among others.

It’s been a trip long overdue. After blocking our schedules for weeks, I finally took a weekend off with E. and M. Another friend was supposed to join us, but he was off to Pakistan yesterday. Suffice to say, three girls, with E. on the wheel, had so much fun!



Nilagang Baka at Langka

We took the “backdoor route” to southern Luzon through Rizal, and Laguna, before spending the night in Lucban, Quezon. We practically stopped at every interesting town that either had a beautiful church, sold some delicacy (Budin in Tayabas, Quezon or Queso in Lumban, Laguna) or when we were simply hungry (Nilagang baka at langka in Pagsanjan or steamy sinigang na tanigue sa miso in Kalayaan, both in Laguna).


Lake Caliraya

It was a beautiful drive with the Laguna de Bay on one side, and mountains looming on the other. At one point, the man-made Caliraya Lake sitting on top of the mountain was right there, overlooking Laguna de Bay. We did encounter lots of “overlooking” resorts in between Rizal and Laguna, as well as bukal and batis resorts. Those were not included in our stops though.

I am just amazed with what Philippine provinces can offer. This side of Laguna, and the parts of Rizal and Quezon we drove through were quite rural (without malls at least), yet were full of cosmopolitan flavor.

While waiting for the 7PM mass at the Lucban Church, we spent an hour or so having nachos, beer, banana and langka turon, iced amaretto coffee and tasty spicy sausages, with real Portuguese bossa nova in the background. Gravel flooring, dim lights, cheap printed plastic tablecloths, and open-air dining. Yet it was all hip, and kitschy. I am talking about CafĂ© San Luis, right off Lucban’s main square. Right behind our hotel, Patio Rizal.

E. notes that Patio Rizal is the perfect residence when one vistits Lucban for Pahiya. I certainly agree. Our room had two balconies: one facing the plaza, and the other facing Rizal street. With A/C, cable tv, and a bath with a tub, it is more than one would expect. Service is excellent. Staff are there when needed, and they’re not the overeager sort.

Another place one should either visit is Mi Casa en Tayabas. It would certainly be your home in Taybas! Walking around to buy Budin from the Quezon Museum, we stumbled upon this Mexican/Moroccon looking establishment. It was so colorful! Its walls were painted, floor tiles had different designs, it has glass doorknobs, bottle lamps and so much more. The food was tasty enough but should be presented better. And they serve Heineken beer!

When we were in Lumban to buy cheese, a street vendor even let us in his neighbor’s house so we could go home with P50 bag of salty delights. In Paete, a serving of tokwa was just P10. We were just strolling along and discovered this tiny garage full of wooden tables that served special halo-halo for P40 each. It was a nice way to wait for the rain to stop.

We ate at lots of places (including what should have been Kamayan Palaisdaan, instead of just Palaisdaan) and made several stops along the highway but we surprisingly visited lots of churches. My favorites though are the churches in Tayabas: the interiors of the Basilica and the exterior of the Purple church (which is actually just used for wakes, and is not real church). I like Tayabas. It’s artistic. But Lucban, is homey and relaxing.

It was one fun weekend. Yet, I still wonder why males (from youngsters to men) always carry a bolo with them. Our take is to cut through the thick foliage (especially in Luisiana, Laguna).


Paete Church


Lucban longganisa for breakfast at the Plaza
Lucban Church and Buddy's on the left



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