World Bistro: Croix Rousse Market in Lyon

If you've been reading earlier entries from this blog, you would know my unrealized aspiration to take up culinary school. In an effort to test the waters, I enrolled for a class at Plum Lyon last month. The course started with a walk up to Croix Rousse and Lucy Vanel telling us the rich history of the area from its silk roots to how instrumental it was in changing the Lyonnaise cuisine but also how the neighborhood adapted through the decades. For more of Lucy's stories, also check out her blog.

From reading this blog, you'd also notice I love farmer's markets - the real farmer's markets. Mind you, I always thought that only artisan products were sold in real markets but I was wrong. Lucy said there are three types of market sellers. First, are those that sell one product alone. Let's say they just sell apples that they grow themselves and perhaps add a few other products made from the apples like jam and such. The second type would be selling specific kinds such as vegetables, fruits, meat or whatever except that they are still all from the region's farms and also are products of the season. Then the third category are those that sell imported products from elsewhere. That's why you see pineapples on fruit stands too.

Croix Rousse market is the biggest in Lyon in terms of stalls. Although the sellers also participate at other markets on other days of the week, it's at Croix Rousse that they all meet every Saturday. Reachable by metro and bus (#18), enjoy the ride up and whether you like it or not, you'll always come away with something.

Spargelzeit!!!

I've been to quite a number of market's this year but perhaps it was visiting a market with a local that revealed all its treasures. I encountered herbs I've never heard of before - despite watching the Food Network a lot and reading cookbooks! I didn't realize how many types of strawberries there are too!

The rule was, we went around the market to have an overview and get an idea what's available, then at the end, decide what to prepare for class and pick up the goodies on the way back. I was simply overwhelmed.

Just look at how they were presented and sold? So simple yet with so much style and character. And if you're just at the market for ratatouille, et voila!And do notice the price too. Waaaaay cheaper than what we get in Geneva.

Lyonnaise cuisine is known to have risen from what the rich will not eat. France's gastronomic capital actually came to be thanks to leftovers. But it is in these leftover animal parts that where flavors reside. So obviously, you can expect all these at Croix Rousse too!