Fete de la Musique in Geneva

Geneva often gives the impression that it is boring and quiet. I actually quite agree but not when you know where to go and when summer is here. Geneva completely shows its other face. 

June 21 marks the summer solstice and the start of summer, and there's no better way to celebrate it than with three days of Fete de la Musique! Yes, three days!!!

Fete de la Musique started in 1982 when then French Cultural Minister Jack Lang heeded the suggestion of his Director for Dance and Music to bring people to the streets. Quoted as saying, "the music everywhere, the concert nowhere," the Fete was officially conceived. 

Happening all over the world, the Philippines is no stranger to the Fete. I grew up enjoying the various kinds of music when it used to be held at different stages around El Pueblo. I remember it to be just one evening but would last until dawn. Then all of a sudden, it stopped. I think the last time I went was when the French Embassy brought in a French gypsy trio to perform at the tent in Sofitel. But I heard it's been back in some form or another in recent years. 

But back to Geneva.

Here, the Fete lasts three days and starts even before noon across quite a number of venues all over the city - from parks to concert halls, to churches and the city hall. They even provided a shuttle bus to bring concert-goers to either side of the river. But in Geneva, the music stops at 12am-ish. Then it's quiet again until the next day. Yet people know how to continue their revelry because the food and drink stalls continue to sell beer, caipis and other grub through the night so the crowd can continue their picnic until mosquitoes bite. Yes, I was bitten at Bastions! 

I was eager to go all three days and spent the first night at Parc de Bastions with L, who introduced me to quite a number of other pre-school teachers here. Interesting global conversations on the grass. The concert becoming a mere background. 

We eventually went to Hotel de Ville where we saw an awesome trio that played what seemed to me very ambient music. We wanted to stay but the Alabama Hall was packed! In the other hall, we also saw a belly dancer performing. 

Up, over, and now down the hill, we headed for Place de Madeleine to listen to some electro music. Along the way, we actually saw maidens in white, dancing to some stereo music from the 70s.  Summer solstice indeed! By the time we got to the hall, we were in utter shock of the silence and eventual emptiness. There was no crowd! So off we were back to Parc de Bastions for some real outdoor concerts. 

On day 2, I came with other girlfriends and decided to meet at Parc de Beaulieu. It was right before sunset and everyone was having a picnic. It reminded me so much of the concerts at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (I should have written about that here too!). I particularly liked the music at the adjacent Parc de Cropettes, which sounded more like Balkan Beats to me. Amazing how my preferences have changed in less than two years!  

Since friends wanted to go to the Old Town, so there we went. The entire evening was actually spent hopping from one venue to another, queuing for caiprinhas and pommes frites, taking pictures, and swapping stories the way girls always do. Imagine the entire stretch of Le Treille filled with food and drink stalls with live performances all around it. Such a pretty sight! 

When Sunday came, I just wanted some alone time. Since I've moved here, I've been wanting to watch the orchestra but just could never afford it. I was so glad that during the Fete, classical music was also part of the program so I was able to watch a segment at the Victoria Hall too! The interiors are so arresting, it made me appreciate old halls more. I love the KKL but there's something about the old world charm that appeals to me. And I supposed it also attracts the elderly because this time, I was surrounded by senior citizens too! 

Then of course, the young person in me had to go back to Parc de Bastions for some choripan (chorizo sandwich) combo which came with a tiny glass of vino. I was actually collecting those Fete glasses so the additional 2 CHF deposit per glass somehow became pricey. It was such a thrill to watch a live performance, with the Reformation Wall behind, and eat at the same time though! 

The Fete de la musique ended for me with a DJ spinning some ambient music beside a disco ball at Place de Neuve.